Traveling and Living

Amsterdam is defined by its canals.

Built 400 years ago in concentric horseshoes, they are the rib cage of the city. Coasting their waters on a canal boat opens windows onto a history of vast wealth and global power. The cobbled streets alongside the canals are scenic urban pathways for walking or biking. And they are anchors for funky shops, and cafes.

The inner city of the Dutch capital is a compact warren of heritage buildings, of museums both grand and odd, of hidden gardens and outdoor markets – all within easy reach by any mode of transport except the unwelcome car.

No longer is the bargain city of Europe, Amsterdam still a town of wonders that can be had for a discount, and sometimes for free.

WALKING AND BIKING

Seeing 17th century Amsterdam, with its proud past and sometimes quirky culture on display, from a bike or on foot is a happy cost-free experience. Among its 2,000 or so bridges, the Bridge of 15 Bridges at the intersection of two canals is among the most spectacular, with a view of a series of stone spans whose arches are gracefully lit at night.

The city also has hidden gems that require guidance or tips to find: Some gardens, tucked away in courtyards or behind stately apartments, are open to the public any time, while others open on a special day of the year. The Rijksmuseum, with its Rembrandts and Vermeers, costs 11 euro ($A18.86) entry, but its garden is open year-round for free.

The Begijnhof is a grassy courtyard surrounded by 14th century cottages – an oasis of quiet at one of the busiest sections of town where a small chapel often stages musical recitals. Near the Begijnhof is a covered passageway known as the Civics Guard Gallery, with 15 huge group portraits – from the same time as Rembrandt’s Night Watch – of leading citizens from the Dutch Golden Age.

Outside the well-trod shopping lanes are the lesser known sections, like the Nine Lanes, lined with tiny specialty establishments like the handmade soap shop, the spectacles museum and a store dedicated to toothbrushes. The Jordaan, once the working class district, has been revived with boutiques, tapas bars, ethnic restaurants and Amsterdam Hotels. Advertorial info: sharing files over the internet

The city’s 26 open-air markets offer knick-knacks, antiques, farmers’ produce, artworks, clothing and just about anything else you can think of. The largest and most popular with Dutch food shoppers is the Albert Cuyp Market, where everything is fresh and cheap.

Traveling by bicycle makes you feel like a true local. About 40 per cent of Amsterdam traffic is on two wheels. Most streets have special lanes and traffic lights – and woe be to the unwary pedestrian who walks in the bike path. Although the bicycle is king in Amsterdam, beware of the many trams and getting your wheel caught in their rails.

Tourists can rent a bike for about 10 euro ($A17.15) a day, with special weekly rates. Also available are tandems for two, cargo bikes for hauling groceries or toddlers, and bikes with child seats.

Biking opens up the prospect of escaping the urban setting for countryside of pastureland, windmills and more canals. On the southern side of the city is the 2500-acre Amsterdam forest, the city’s largest park with more than 50 km of bike paths.

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